Walk, Shop, Eat Some More and Sleep

I warned John prior to our trip that in addition to eating in Charleston, the shopping isn't bad either.   Lucky me, I can get away with a little bit of selfish indulgence on birthday weekends.

With time to kill post cooking class and pre check in, we wandered down to the old city market area.   I rarely buy anything, but like to poke around and do a little people watching.   I love the structure of the market with the white post beams and iron lighting.   The seagrass weaving artisans are always fun to watch too.

Apparently that's a blow fish in the photo above.   John says they actually look like that, but I'm not convinced that have that evil smile naturally.  

My favorite stop outside of the market was a gorgeous little spice shop.    I have a slight addiction to spice mixes lately after discovering that Penzey's moved to town.    But that's another story...

Left the market area and headed home to Church Street to check in.    Was feeling pretty icky from the sun and food and looking forward to relaxing a bit on the porch before dinner.

We stayed at 15 Church Street in an extremely charming home down by the waterfront park.    Annelise greeted us at the front door and walked us through front hall to the wrap around porch where she gave us a historical overview of Charleston and their beautiful home.   John and I stayed in the carriage house with our own separate entrance.    After getting ready for dinner we went back out to the porch to meet our fellow guests (and puppy) and enjoy some wine, music and conversation.  

(Truth be told, I was feeling a little anxious at the time as we were about to miss the UNC v. Marquette game.    I went to Marquette and John finished his residency at UNC so it was bound to be an exciting game with a good outcome either way.   (I felt a little better that we missed it when we heard the half time score was something like 40 to 15.  Yikes.   Was expecting a little more of a fight.))

I was super excited about dinner though.   We were dining at Husk, a relatively new restaurant in Charleston with a James Beard award winning chef at the helm.   They are all about the local ingredients.   Yup, I'm a bit of a food nerd.  

Ignore the horrendous pictures above, I wanted to give you an idea because that simple looking pork rib dish in the lower left corner was seriously the best thing I've ever had.    Charred, fatty, smoky, sweet meaty heaven.    I am seriously considering going vegetarian again after that dish because I don't think it will ever get better.

Go to Husk if you are in Charleston.   Reserve in advance as its pretty popular.   Ask for a table in one of the smaller rooms upstairs.    Swing by the bar in the building next door for a drink before or after.   Its very charming.   And the service is some of the best we've ever had.     Love this place.

After dinner, the short walk home through the gas lamp lit streets to our cozy little room.    Life is good.

Etsy Wedding Love

I'm so happy.  Warmer weather is on the way, the sun is out.   Spring is finally here!   Plus, it's St. Patrick's day and who doesn't love a good holiday?

I thought I'd spread a little etsy love today and share some of my favorites that made their way into our wedding.   I would encourage you to check out these sellers.   They were all truly wonderful to work with and helped to make my wedding day special with each of their creative and unique touches.

Our ring bearer bowl, by Paloma's Nest.   I love that we were able to use this during our wedding and can continue to display it now at home.   I'm looking forward to hanging it on our Christmas tree next year.   The quote holds a special memory for me and was a subtle way of personalizing our day.

I love lace.   I especially love French lace.    The French Nest Company is filled to the brim with all kinds of sweet French touches.  I want to gather them all up and surround myself with them!   We used this lace in our favors.

These bags are fabulous!  I was looking for a unique Welcome Bag and stumbled across these beauties.     This Love Languages bag in natural and gold by The Bucktoothed Bunny shares love in all of the languages of the world.   These fit perfectly with our love of travel, our wedding colors, and were a very practical way to hold all of our welcome items for our out of town guests.

Galleries Lafayette Paris

Shopping in Galleries Lafayette in Paris is such a fabulous experience.  I can't believe I waited until my last day in Paris to make it here, but I'm so happy I finally went.    Where else can you spend an afternoon soaking up all the latest fashions and design in such an elegant environment?    Would be a great way to spend a rainy day in Paris, but honestly, it would not be a waste of your time if you spent some time on a nice day either.

Galleries Lafayette is Europe's largest department store.   Opened in 1896, the building has an unbelievably gorgeous stained glass cupola roof.   Truly a destination for this alone.    So luxurious and beautiful.    It is located at 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, France, near the Opera.

Floor after floor of fashion, food (the markets are amazing), everything you could want or need.   Unfortunately, as I was heading home the next day, I really didn't need anything.   Or more likely, I had no more room in my bags.    I did leave with a head full of inspiration.    Honestly giddy with it all, I called John on the way out and said we must return here.   I know it sounds silly to say this of a mall-like environment, but throw every idea you have of a mall out and trust me, just go here if you are in Paris.   Amazing.

Oh... and the views from the rooftop... wait until you see this!

Ode to Madeleine(s)

My first born child will be named Madeleine.    Madeleine Sophia.    Or Sophia Madeleine.  

Or something altogether different if she shows up as a boy instead.  

Are baby names like weddings?   Do little girls dream of these and compile lists of their favorites?   I did.    Well, on the baby name part anyway.   Somehow I missed dreaming about planning my wedding.   I know, that doesn't seem quite right when I say that out loud.   Oh well.  It is fun to fantasize about what might lie ahead.  

So in honor of my (potential) future, I'm dedicating today's post to the Madeleine.   We are moving away from the baby arena and on to the sweet delicate french cake of the same name.   I have to confess that while in Paris, I never once had a madeleine.  I saw them.  I knew of them.  I just never had one.  

In fact, given this background, I certainly didn't think of purchasing a madeleine pan while compiling my lists of must have things to bring home from Paris.    My list had all kinds of other things, but not this.     It turns out that on one of my shopping afternoons at the Place du Madeleine, poking around all of the amazing gourmet shops, with dreams of filling my luggage with all kinds of french treats, I had a sort of a reality check.

First, I remembered the hassle of flying into Paris with my severely overweight and therefore, expensive, luggage.   Then, I had a vision of arriving in customs and being peppered with questions about bringing in live fruits and animals and things from the farm.   In my vision, I panic, which is immediately seen by the officer who yanks me out of line and demands that I open my suitcase right then and there.    I am surrounded by sniffing dogs.   I am no longer in fear of things like underwear popping out, but now of strawberry jams, delicate honey's, french teas and all types of other things that will probably have me somehow banned from returning to the country.

Yes, I have a little anxiety issue.    Regardless, I just wasn't willing to take the risk.

Which made me a very sad customer.    

Which also brings me back to the reason for this post, the madeleine.  

While perusing Fauchon, one of my favorite shops, with all of its hot pink and black gorgeousness, I run across a table of pans.   Tucked away in the back.   In vibrant silicone.    And there it was, a sweet, hot pink, mini little madeleine pan.  

Just the perfect size for my suitcase.   Flat, flexible, and non-edible.   Definitely not from the farm.  I breathe a sigh of relief.  

I am happy to report it made it back in tact and it produces the sweetest little cakes you've ever seen.   I know they are supposed to resemble scalloped edges, but whenever I see these, I think kitty paws.    They are so cute.   Light as air.   Fluffy.   Perfect tea time treat.

This recipe is minimally adapted from the fabulous version found on 101 Cookbooks.  I added honey to my version which gives these a beautiful and very light honey lemon essence.  

Ingredients

1 and 1/2 sticks unsalted butter with extra for greasing the pan
3/4 cup all purpose flour
4 eggs
pinch of salt
2/3 cup sugar
zest from a large lemon
1 and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 and 1/4 teaspoon honey (I used lavender scented)
Powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Begin by clarifying the butter.    Melt the butter on medium low heat.    Stir regularly for about 15-20 minutes until butter turns a little brown and has a nice cooked aroma to it.    Solids should be floating on the top.    Strain solids from butter and allow the butter to cool in small dish.   Set aside.

While butter is cooling, prepare your pan.  I used a mini madeleine pan, silicone version.    Butter and dust with flour.   Shake excess flour from pan.    Set aside.

In large bowl, beat eggs and pinch of salt for about 3 minutes until appears light, foamy and doubles/triples in volume.    Slowly begin to add in the sugar, while continuing to beat the egg mixture.   Whip this at high speed for another 2-3 minutes until creamy.

Fold in the lemon zest, honey and vanilla.   It is important to maintain the volume and air in the egg sugar mixture as this is necessary for the cake to obtain a sponge like airy texture upon completion.  

Gently fold in the flour just until incorporated.   Do not overmix.  

Spoon out filling into prepared pan.    Try for about 2/3 full.    

Place pan in oven and bake for 7-8 minutes.  (Longer for larger version).     Immediately remove from pan to cool.  

Dust with powdered sugar after cooling.

A few lessons learned that I'll pass along to you.   It is really easy to overfill these.   If you do, they will rise up over the top and connect to the other madeleines which completely destroys the dainty effect you are trying to achieve.   Be patient as filling them.   There is no rush.

Enjoy!

Window Shopping in Paris

Window shopping in Paris is seriously an art form.   Actually, I suppose the shop fronts are the art form, and the act of window shopping is just seriously fun.  

It is like the shop owners have a quiet competition going on to outdo each other.    The colors, textures, lighting, props all come together to create gorgeous imagery that is hard to pass by.   I suppose that is the point.    I could spend days, probably weeks if I had the luxury of time, simply strolling past shop fronts admiring all of the fabulousness.    I admit, I did spend quite a few hours in my two weeks in Paris doing just this.

What I love about Paris if you make it beyond the window to an actual purchase, the same care and design go into the process of packaging up your item.    It never matters to me that it takes infinitely longer to finish the transaction.    The art of packaging in Paris is so worth the wait.   I love watching the shopkeepers hands wrap up a tiny little item in beautiful paper and tying it with ribbon and other pretty things.   It makes me feel special, appreciated.   I am silly that way.    

I remember my very first purchase in Paris.   Several years ago on a trip with friends.    We were strolling through Le Marais.   Had just finished our tour of the Musee Picasso (amazing, amazing, amazing, when it is open!).    Browsing shops.   Just having fun girl time.   In one of the shops I found a necklace.   Delicate, pearls strategically placed, very feminine.   So me.   I was really poor at the time but knew I had to have it.    It was so exciting to make that first purchase and even more wonderful to watch it being wrapped up in such a gorgeous fashion.     That necklace and the experience of buying it made such a lasting impression on me and is one of my favorite memories of Paris.

And... there is truly nothing better than coming home from a shopping trip and emptying all of your little packages onto your bed and spending delicious time carefully unwrapping each and every one.   Kind of like your own personal holiday.  I also just love how it doesn't matter how much you spend, you still get the same treatment.   2 euros on some small trinket and it is the same process and experience!   Love it.

I always laugh a little bit when I read the debates on etsy about packaging and whether it is okay to throw an item in some used cereal box with grubby newspaper, slap it all together and send it out to your customer.   I am all about helping environment, trust me, but I'm not about to lose that 'Parisian experience' in the process and I want my customer to feel just a little special on the other end, like they are receiving a gift.   Everything in balance.

Speaking of etsy, it is probably one of my favorite places to 'window shop' online.    Here are some of my latest Paris inspired finds from a recent trip.   Enjoy!

Parisian Princess by clairelafaye

Amour 5x7 Fine Art Photography by StudioHaus

Vintage Scalloped Lace Silver Cuff Bracelet by WhiteFly

Memories of Sacre Couer

I can clearly remember the first time I saw Sacre Couer.   Late March evening.  I was traveling for the first time overseas with friends.   Maybe ten years ago or so.   One of my friends and I decided to split off from the rest of the group and do some exploring on our own in Montmartre.    The details getting there are fuzzy, but I do remember rounding the corner and standing in awe at the entirely lit up enormous cathedral standing before us and then seeing the lights of Paris at our feet.    I will never forget that moment.

I will also never successfully recreate that moment.   Nor do I want to.  Some events are meant to happen only once in our lives so that they can stay perfect in our memories.   

My goal for today was a somewhat leisurely stroll through the areas around the Opera and Saint Honore Faubourg and ultimately end up at Montmartre and Sacre Couer before heading back home.   Another gorgeous summer like day in Paris.   A Saturday.   Everyone is out and about.  

I head down to the craziness of Place de la Concorde and walk up Rue Royale to the Madeline.   This was a new church for me.  I was struck by how huge and greek it appeared with its strong columns and dark exterior.    I was also distracted by all of the cute little gourmet shops lining the streets around the church.   Very tempting.    I climb the stairs and head inside.     This church, to me, feels more Italian than other churches I have been visiting in France.   More gold maybe.  This is balanced by my favorite part, the chandeliers with creamy white lights.  I love how these look with the ornate surroundings.  

I leave the church, make a note to come back and do some shopping before I leave Paris and head down Rue St. Honore.  On my way to the Opera, I stop by several more churches, the polish church Eglise de l’Assomption and St. Roch with its interesting metal sculpture behind the alter.   I make a pit stop at Place Vendome with its column duplicating the one in Rome and its fancy shops.    Favorite part of this walk was not the sights, but the window shopping.   Fun fantasizing about taking home lots of new beautiful dresses, shoes and jewelry.    Make another mental note to return.

I arrive at the Opera.   Another imposing and ornate structure on the outside.   I was eager to get inside and take a tour so I could see the Chagall ceiling.   Also disappointed to see the area was surrounded by tour buses and tour groups.   I hold out hope that maybe I can get in.    Another disappointment when I realize the area with ceiling is closed due to rehearsal.    If you decide to go here, definitely look into this in advance.  

On to Montmartre.   I have a general path outlined.  I love how the streets begin to get narrower as you approach the neighborhood.    Everything shrinks and becomes more of what you envision Paris to be.   Less big fancy city, more traditional neighborhood.    Reach Pigalle.   Take the same Moulin Rouge picture I take on every single visit to Paris.    

From here, I lose my map and just start following people.   Recognize the street Rue Lepic.   Love this street filled with little markets and cafes and also people.    I envision living here and stopping by to pick up fruits and vegetables on the way home.  

In my fantasy, I get lost again and wind up walking a large and quiet street around the back heading up to Sacre Couer.   Sometimes getting lost is the best gift.   Shade, quiet, little shops.    Very nice if not long walk up the hill.    Purchased a little olive baguette at one of the many boulangerie with a vision of having my afternoon picnic on the steps of the church. 

Up a huge staircase, past the vineyard and thrown right into the mix of the Place du Tetre.    If you come here maybe first thing in the morning or some off season time, I would imagine you can actually see the artists working their canvases, shop in the little (somewhat tacky) gift shops and perhaps stop for a drink and watch the world walk by.    On a late Saturday afternoon, on a gorgeous summer like day, it is not a fun place to be.   I push my way through the crowds.   Realize that there is also a mini event occurring here today.  In hindsight, know now that this is also tied to Biodiversity Days as there are lots of small vendors selling organic products.  I purchase a tiny cup of fresh strawberries for my picnic and push on through. 

The area surrounding Sacre Couer is also full of people.  Incredibly crowded.  I decide not to visit the inside and spend my time on the steps listening to the guy playing guitar and enjoying my picnic.    With all of the craziness, it was actually a nice little rest and great for people watching.   I also decided to get a little creative with my photography here.

And this was my day.    I can’t remember what else I did that night, but I do know heading home, I got trapped for a couple of blocks in a very seedy area of Montmartre, the kind that a girl traveling alone probably wouldn’t want to spend too much time in at night.   Was a fun little adventure.   Once I left here, stopped by the market and patisserie for a few more yummy things for dinner.   I was on a strawberry kick. 

A great Saturday.   It will never replicate the original feeling I had when I saw Sacre Couer for the first time all lit up that night, but I now have a new memory to put along side of it.  

PS – Thanks everyone for your support in the trials and tribulations of laundry day yesterday!   Another memory, slightly different in nature, but a memory all the same.