Perfect Parisian Day

A park.   A church.   A museum.   Lots of walking in between.  One more fabulous day in Paris.

Fresh from the recent photography class, I am once again rejuvenated and ready to hit the streets.    My mission today is the Jardin du Luxembourg.    From there, I have no plan other than to go wherever I end up.    A great way to travel I think.   Especially when you have time on your side. 

A short walk from my apartment to the Seine and across Ile de la Cite and approach the gardens from Boulevard St. Michel.    Walk through the gates and up the path approaching the Palais du Luxembourg.   The main attraction here, for me anyway, are the gardens and park like atmosphere.     

Everything feels bright to me here under the Paris morning sun.   I always feel like I need to shade my eyes.   The white paths, the sparkling teal water, the bright green leafy trees.   Everything shimmers with bright light.    The palace stands at the front overlooking a vast display of fountains, paths and leafy corners.    Little rows of neatly ordered flowers.    Green metal chairs positioned throughout, filled with people sitting, reading, chatting, napping in the sun.   

My goal was to spend some time at the Fountain des Medicis, tucked away off to the right of the palace when you are facing it.     Set amongst the green trees in a shady, quiet, cool and calming corner.   Very peaceful.  The still water of the long pool in front of the fountain perfectly reflects the surroundings.    As I was there, there were half a dozen or so artists sketching the fountain.  It was a very relaxing spot.    Beautiful. 

After wandering around a bit, I head back out to explore the St. Germain area.    Lots of beautiful boutiques and little cafes line the streets.     Eventually run into Saint Sulpice, a church you may be familiar with from the Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown.   The huge church just sort of popped out of nowhere for me.   Right in the middle of this little street stands this enormous and dark looking structure.    Took me awhile to walk around it and find the entrance.    This is a significant church, second in size to Notre Dame in Paris.  The ceilings soar, small chapels tucked around the sides and an enormous center is filled with wooden chairs.  I was thrilled to catch a small ray of light illuminating the floor near the back of the church.   

From here, I leave to do some more wandering.   I seriously want to stop at one of the inviting cafes, but I know if I stop that will be it for the afternoon for me.   Once I eat or drink anything, forget it, it is all over.     I have to save that for later in the day.   

I end up at the Musee D’Orsay.    My favorite museum in Paris.   I have some other favorites, but this is the one I imagine when I think about this city.     The museum was built in an old train depot and I think it is just the perfect structure for the collection.   An impressionist lovers dream, this place is full of gorgeous works from all of your favorites, Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh.    Everywhere you turn is a little room full of paintings you learned about in school.     The soaring ceilings and windows flood the entire building with light and perfectly highlight the interior sculpture section which is more than beautiful on its own.     I could sit here for hours and contemplate, but there is just so much to see to sit for too long.   

I adore this place.  I lost track of time as usual and spent the remaining part of my afternoon here.   I did have one complete surprise as I wandered the top floor.   I had never been to the Decorative Arts section.  If you go, I advise you to stay and check it out.  I know the focus is on the impressionist paintings, but there is much more to see.    I walked around a corner and ran into the most beautiful room I have ever seen, the Salle des Fetes.     Full of gold and cream, mirrors and chandeliers, exquisite details.   Elegant to the extreme.   The lighting is perfect.   You actual feel beautiful in this room.   I walked in and said to myself, wouldn’t this be a perfect place for a wedding reception?   I will keep dreaming, but truly, gorgeous.   It used to be the ballroom for the Hotel d’Orsay.   Don’t miss this.  

I heeded the warnings not to take photographs in this museum.   They were posted everywhere.   I think I was probably the only one following the rules.   I had another fabulous visit here and it was a perfect way to spend the afternoon.    My feet are killing me at this point, so I start out on the long walk back to my apartment.   Time to rest for a bit.      

There is just so much to see in Paris.  I am exhausted thinking about it.  I believe you could spend forever here and not really scratch the surface.      

Well, as usual, I’m off to give it another attempt.     Au revoir!

Afternoon in the Park with Bernini

Discovered a new love in Rome.   Bernini.   How have I not fully noticed him before?   I walk by his fountains several times a day.   They are stunning works, but I’ve never really paused to appreciate.    

I spent a good part of Thursday afternoon in the Villa Borghese gardens and in the Galleria Borghese.    I’ve always loved the park for its greenery and relative peace and quiet, but I’ve never had an opportunity to visit the gallery.   This is due in part to the fact that you need to reserve a spot in advance and I never quite got around to that in prior visits.

Thursday was the perfect day for park strolling and museum going.   Cool, cloudy.   An on and off mix of bright sun and white clouds, and grey drizzle and black sky.    I brought my umbrella this time and saved myself from the rain.    Reserved my spot in the gallery from 1 – 3.   Each ticket allows exactly two hours inside.   It is a perfect way to see a museum as the crowds are kept to a minimum and you can really reflect. 

I left my flat early so I could spend some time wandering around the park.   I knew the signage wasn’t great and I didn’t have a map, so allowed a buffer for getting lost.   Needed it too.   A perfect morning walking up and down paths and breathing in the fresh air.  I revisited the fountain I was at when Pierre passed and felt his spirit there.    A special morning.

At 12:45, I turned in my bag (no cameras or really, anything allowed in side) and took my place in line.  I had no idea what to expect as I had not done any preliminary research.     When they allowed us in, I was blown away by the magnitude and beauty of this gallery.   It is ornate and yet airy.    Words will not be able to adequately describe and since I couldn’t take pictures, just trust me on this.

The bottom floor houses the gallery’s sculpture.    Each room has a Bernini centerpiece surrounded by smaller sculptures and paintings.    

I fell completely in love with two.   I will let them speak for themselves and then highly encourage you to visit the gallery if you have some time in Rome. 

Apollo and Daphne

Rape of Proserpina

This last view from the Rape of Proserpina is what got me.   How is this even possible?   Technical and emotional genius. 

I also visited the pinotecca while in the gallery, but, I have to say, I left my heart with Bernini.   It was honestly kind of a draining experience.   In a good way.

As I left the gallery, the sun was still coming in and out.   I wandered around for another hour or two, photographing the wonderful fountains and amazing display of clouds that were rapidly transforming throughout the day.

It was truly a great afternoon in the park.      Exactly what I needed with an added bonus of an unexpected new love for sculpture.    

On a much lighter note, the title of this post reminds me of 'Weekend at Bernie's'.   Sad.  With that, I'll leave you some giggle worthy, juvenile humor, sculpture.   Not quite on par with my newest obsession, but there is room for it all. 

New Home and Keats Shelley Day

All moved into my new home for the next month.    I know I will be very happy here.  I have lots of space and light and I’m right in the middle of things.    I love living in the city.  

In between moving, I’ve been running around Rome with my dad seeing old things that I never tire of and new things that I love just as much as the old.     I was feeling a little sick yesterday but much better today.   A little extra sleep and some advil did the trick.    I’ve included a couple of pictures from my new apartment.  

Had our first lunch in Campo di Fiori yesterday.   Wandered around the market for awhile and admired the artichokes.    I love artichokes as much as I love beets.    I’m looking forward to daily trips to the market.    I also found my grocery store here.   I just love that I can buy cute little containers of cubed pancetta for less than 3 euros.   Crazy.    Eggs are on the shelf here.   Not refrigerated.  I haven’t figured that out yet.    Today I made my first purchase in Rome of toilet paper when I realized we didn’t have any.   This is after I completed flooded the bathroom floor and left zero hot water for my dad.    Rough start. 

Last night we went back to our favorite pizza place Da Baffetto.   I love super super thin pizza and this is the absolute best.    I can tell I am hungry now as I’m writing about food.   Will refocus. 

Today after a fabulous cappuccino (last reference to food, promise) we went all through the normal tourist stops.   Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, Pantheon.   My favorite Bernini elephant.   Quick stop for shopping and then out again to the Keats Shelley Museum located at the bottom of the Spanish Steps.   We spent awhile lingering around the door reading about all of the famous poets, authors and artists who lived in Rome.   There was a really interesting map showing the streets around Spanish Steps and where everyone lived.   No one lived directly on via della vite, but several right nearby.   Unfortunately we spent so much time at the entrance, by the time we made it upstairs, they were closing for lunch.   

We continued on to the second part of our Keats Shelley day and walked down to the Protestant Cemetery.   Gorgeous weather for a walk.  I can’t believe I’ve never been here in late Spring.   Competes with fall now for a perfect time to be here.     The cemetery was amazing.  I know that sounds strange but I am really glad we went.   We saw all of the famous burials, including my guy Munthe’s family.   My favorite part was just wandering around and reading all of the inscriptions.   I was telling my dad that I had a little bit of an epiphany when I decided that my favorites were not those about someone’s worldly accomplishments but instead those that referenced the difference that the person made in someone else’s life.   It was quite a profound moment for me.    I am so glad we went.    Could have wandered around for hours.     Decided to leave when I saw Emily Elizabeth’s grave.   Emily Elizabeth passed at age 37.   Freaked me out a little bit. 

We stopped on our walk back for a beer and some bruschetta (sorry) and then wandered back through Trastevere and found my brother’s old apartment before heading back home.   Here now, writing and thinking about getting ready for dinner.    Life is good.